Day 3; [HR] Puffin Stuff

Today the day started with blue skies and warm temperatures. It seemed like the perfect kind of day to go check out the heretofore mythical puffins. We went to Bay Bulls to take a 2 and a half hour whale and puffin viewing boat trip. It was, thankfully, not a “three hour tour” since we all know what happens to three hour tours; one of our neighbours already calls us “the professor and Maryanne”—a three hour tour seemed like tempting fate. This trip was one of the most incredible experiences I’ve ever had; I’d never really been out on the Atlantic and it was exhilarating. This is the beginning of the whale season and we didn’t see any whales but it didn’t bother me much since the puffins were so magical. We were able to get very close to Gull Island and Green Island and see thousands and thousands of birds. I also learned a number of things about the puffin. Did you know that baby puffins are called “pufflings” (isn’t that a great word?)? And, that after they are full grown they leave the island of their birth and then go to sea for 2-3 years and then return to the very burrow in which they were born? They live for an average of 20 some years and mate for life (“good Catholic birds” our tour guide told us). In order to fly, they must flap their wings 300 times per minute. They’re really neat to see. Our tour was quite magical; between narrations, they played Great Big Sea songs and our tour guide sang a number of songs including a really captivating narrative song about the rescue of a horse who had fallen through the ice: by the final verse, I was near tears and greatly relieved to hear the horse survived!

After our tour, the weather turned colder and rainy so we put off hiking again. We started on a southerly drive that took us on the Irish Loop. Just as we thought we’d never see anything as lovely, we crested a hill or turned a corner and saw something even more stunning. Around every corner there was some new vista or site that took our breath away. I was also amused to see that each town we passed seemed to have a geriatric dog and a round-headed boy on a bike. The dogs all had a knowing look to them—like a canine Yoda. Once, we stopped for a cup of coffee. I was taking photos of a breathtaking cove while Dale went in. As I was taking pictures, I noticed a very geriatric sheltie with matted fur ambling about. I noticed that he methodically peed on each tire of a car parked next to ours. As he finished the fourth tire, our eyes met. He came over to see me and I tried to engage him in conversation. After some awkward silences, he raised his matted snout as a person might tap the brim of a hat. He then proceeded to pee on each of our front tires while maintaining eye contact with me. I said, “You go little buddy—it’s a rental.’ He nodded and set off on his regal doggy way, stopping traffic as he proceeded.

Dale came out of the restaurant with a Tim Horton’s cup and I excitedly said, “They’ve got Tim’s coffee here??!?” No. Seems they didn’t have lids so they offered to rinse out and refill the Tim’s cup Dale brought into the restaurant to throw out. My excitement at the prospect of Tim’s made me realize I’m a real Ontarian now. “How is the coffee?” I said. “Warm,” Dale said. After our boat trip, warm was all we really wanted. We stood, amazed, at the view in front of us and smiled at the aged sheltie. No matter how my photos turn out, they’ll never capture what we saw and felt at that moment.

In our few days here, we’ve been so impressed with the people here—they’ve all welcomed us so fully and everyone has been so excited to offer restaurant or sightseeing advice. Even tonight, a couple noticed us looking at menus and offered capsule reviews of four or five places they liked. People have been genuinely kind and sincerely hospitable and I’ve never felt more welcome in a place I’ve visited before.

We ended our evening in a few pubs sampling Newfoundland beers. We went to the Rose and Thistle because our friend Julia said we had to go there; in an odd coincidence, the song playing when we walked in was called “Julia.” Eeeeerie. The next place we went had a guy singing and playing guitar. At one point he stopped and said, “Does anyone have any duct tape?” Pause. No answer. Awkward pause. “Oh well,” he said and continued playing. Not sure what tomorrow will bring but even if it’s half as fantastic as today, it will be amazing.