Saturday, June 14, 2014

Day 8: Culloden, Cairns and Cawdor (and cookies)

I'm sitting next to an open window in my lovely hotel room.  It's after 10 and there's still some daylight. The River Ness is flowing hurriedly beside me and I just noticed the statue of Flora MacDonald I love is visible from my bed.  I'm quite smitten with Inverness.  

Today we set out to see the Culloden Battlefield and I was excited to see it and learn about the battle.  If I hadn't gone in to see the movie mid-exhibit or if I had seen the warning about disturbing content, I expect I would be writing a very different entry-- likely about the brilliant curation of the museum and the way the multiple historical perspectives were conveyed.  But I did see the movie and I didn't see the warning about disturbing content. I'd somehow got separated from my three companions and when I saw "movie starting in three seconds," I dashed in expecting the standard museum film about background and context.  I found I was the only person in a large white walled room.  The lights dimmed and the 360 perspective of the battlefield was presented on all four walls.  At first it was a beautiful landscape with birds chirping.  And then on one wall, some Highlanders scraggled in.  And on a wall across, red coats started lining up.  Then more Highlanders came in, bagpipes blaring.  And more and more red coats came in and formed perfect lines.  And then the Highlanders charged and the red coats stood still.  And they kept standing still until the Highlanders were in shooting range.  And I stood there paralyzed and helpless as the carnage began around me.  I had just been reading about how 1200-1500 Highlanders and 50 British soldiers were killed in just over an hour.  And somehow these numbers were put into perspective.  Once I started, I couldn't stop crying.  I made my way out of the exhibit, found a cup of tea and a quiet table outside by myself overlooking the battlefield.  I suppose I could say many things here about the power of history, about museums, about connecting with the past, about equally horrific things today.  But I will leave it there.  And change the subject abruptly to the Clava Cairns.

From Culloden we drove to the Clava Cairns-- a Bronze Age tomb/ cairn.  Pictures and descriptions don't do them justice.  But I'll include a picture anyway.  To find out more about them, you should google them because they're really interesting.  As your friendly neighbourhood information literacy librarian, I think you can trust me when I say "it's good for you to find your own information.  Active learning etc etc." Or, maybe I'm too tired to write about it myself.  Take your pick: both could be right. 

After that we drove to the tavern at Cawdor because, well, who doesn't like a pub connected with the Famous Thane of Cawdor?  Food and everything was lovely; I think even Lady Macbeth would have approved.  My favourite thing was being told that the restaurant side was totally full but we could sit in the pub side instead if we wanted.  The waitress paused and said, "I should warn you people will be coming and bringing their dogs shortly."  I was very pleased with the cheddar sandwich but disappointed the dogs did not arrive before we left. I hope the dogs had a pleasant afternoon.

We spent the rest of the afternoon wandering rainy and charming Inverness.  I purchased my 2nd travel umbrella of the year (sigh). I am hoping this will be the last travel umbrella I will purchase on the road since I now have one for each of my three regular suitcases. And I'm hoping that purchasing an umbrella will also ensure that it will not rain on us again.  It's now nearly dark and I cannot see Flora MacDonald any longer.  I think I should call it a night as tomorrow's an early-ish morning as we're off to Edinburgh.  Thanks again for your nice emails, comments and FB notes.  Oh, and PS: As if I needed another reason to love Scotland, Scottish hotels give you cookies in your room. 

Culloden



Clava Cairns



Cawdor (sans pooches)








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